Once upon a time, Brooklyn was not the hip and interesting place it is today. Andrew Tarlow, along with Mark Firth, opened Diner in 1999 and defined the Brooklyn restaurant era. Later, Marlow & Sons followed, further refining their vision. As Brooklyn transformed, Tarlow's business grew. Now, after 11 years, he has ventured to Manhattan with Borgo on East Twenty-seventh Street.

Experience Tarlow's New Manhattan Culinary Journey

Introduction to Borgo

Borgo, Tarlow's first new restaurant in Manhattan, is a significant shift. It offers a more brightly lit space with fine serviceware and tailored linens compared to his Brooklyn spots. The live-fire oven in the open kitchen adds to the charm.

When you step into Borgo, you might notice the first name of the reservation-maker scrawled on the white paper atop the linens, reminiscent of Diner's menu dramatics. The Martini No. 2 also gets an elaborate tableside preparation, adding to the overall experience.

The kitchen's wood-burning oven is a star here. It cooks the "focaccia Borgo," a simple yet delicious flatbread with a hidden layer of cheeses. It also imparts its smoky essence to various dishes like the sweet, tiny beets and the veal sweetbreads.

The Menu

The menu at Borgo is fundamentally Italian and built around the live-fire oven. Dishes like the fava purée, a crisp-skinned half chicken, and various pastas showcase Tarlow's culinary prowess.

The fettuccine in a guinea-hen ragù is rich, while the baked cannelloni with braised beef cheeks offers a comforting taste. However, the pastas' portions seem a bit large given their strong flavors. For example, the ravioli filled with sunchoke and mushrooms is an explosion of umami initially but might feel overdone by the end.

Desserts by Adam Marca are gracefully simple. The nutty affogato with pistachio gelato and the bittersweet Sachertorte with candied apricot are delightful treats.

The Ambiance

The room at Borgo is sophisticated without being pretentious. Decorated in shades of wood and white with gently curving ceilings, it has a unique charm.

There are interesting art pieces on the walls, including a Cézanne-ish still-life painted by Tarlow's daughter and an abstract work by him. A double-sided fireplace connects the two dining rooms, adding to the cozy atmosphere.

Although they haven't quite figured out how to light the fireplace without overheating or creating a smoky haze, it still contributes to the overall mood. Borgo evokes the warmth and sophistication of earlier Manhattan Italian restaurants like Beppe and Cesca.