Denver Restaurant Owner Shares Native American Thanksgiving with Family

Nov 27, 2024 at 8:46 AM
Denver restaurant owner Ben Jacobs is set to take a day off on Thursday to celebrate Thanksgiving with his family, surrounded by the flavors of their Native American heritage. This holiday holds both joy and pain for him as a member of the Osage Nation. The traditional story of Thanksgiving is often told from the perspective of white colonists, but Jacobs offers a different view. "I am opposed to the story that is told of Thanksgiving because that's a romantic image," he said. His restaurant, Tocabe, specializes in Native American foods and aims to share the culture through food.

Discover the True Meaning of Thanksgiving at Tocabe

Food as a Bridge to Culture

For Jacobs and his family, food is of utmost importance. Squash, a common ingredient on any holiday table, holds special significance. "As a culinarian, a chef, the foods that we eat and the foods that are important to us, especially on Thanksgiving, have their origins and their histories in our communities. A lot of times those stories are not told," he explained. The simple squash recipe he prepares in the kitchen at Tocabe showcases the connection between food and culture. With just a few ingredients like honeynut or butternut squash, maple or brown sugar, high-quality olive oil, and rubbed sage, he creates a dish that is both delicious and meaningful.

The process of making the squash is detailed and precise. Placing a small stock pot three-quarters full of water on the stove and bringing it to a boil is the first step. While the water heats up, the squash is prepared by removing the skin, flesh, and seeds and cutting it into half-inch cubes. Once the water is boiling, the diced squash is added and cooked for four to five minutes until it is soft but still has some texture. Meanwhile, a bowl of ice and water is prepared. When the squash is ready, it is drained in a mesh sieve and immediately placed in the ice bath to halt the cooking process. After a few minutes, the squash is dried on paper towels and ready to be cooked in a small saute pan with olive oil, salt, sage, and sugar.

The Mission of Tocabe

Jacobs and his business partner, Matt Chandra, opened Tocabe 16 years ago with a mission to share Native American foods and provoke questions and conversation about the culture. The three wooden carvings on the restaurant wall, representing the districts of the Osage nation, serve as a reminder of their community and the importance of their food. "The reason that we selected the three hands is we wanted to create something that people would kind of question. Why the three hands? Why not moccasins? Why not feathers? Why not dream catchers? It's really specific to our community," Jacobs said.

The restaurant offers a wide variety of Native American dishes, from stuffed tacos and fry bread to bison ribs. In the last few years, they have also added Tocabe Indigenous Marketplace, which sells recipe ingredients and ready-to-eat meals. Jacobs often travels the country, visiting Indigenous communities and sourcing the food for his businesses. "What I would like people to remember and realize is that the Native food system is the American food system. Our food can't get stuck in shipping containers off San Francisco, Miami or Houston. We can drive to Cheyenne River Buffalo Company in South Dakota and pick up our buffalo. We can drive to Arizona, Ramona Farms, and pick up tepary beans, on the way back stop at Navajo Pride and pick up pinto beans and then stop at Ute Mountain and pick up blue corn meal and come right back up. It is fully accessible for everyone," he emphasized.

Giving Back to the Community

Jacobs wants Tocabe to serve as a hub for Denver's Indigenous community. He believes that Native American food is for everyone and that by sharing their food system, they are giving American people the food system back that they all always deserved. "This food is not just for Natives. This is food for everyone and I think the real strength in what we're doing as a community ā€“ as food producers, ranchers, farmers, caretakers of the land and people of the water, is that we are giving American people the food system back that we all always deserved," he said.