When Joe Papach and Shaina Robbins Papach, two peripatetic chefs, decided to settle down, they chose Madison, Wisconsin. With a background that included stints at renowned restaurants like The French Laundry and Chez Panisse, they aimed to open their own restaurant that would pay homage to the Upper Midwest. The move was not just a physical one but a powerful influence on their approach to hospitality and food.

Rediscovering the Joy of Midwestern Supper Club at The Harvey House

Location and Renovation

The Harvey House is located in a historic train depot in the middle of Madison. It underwent a three-year renovation, resulting in a two-story building with a bar and dining room on each level. Some tables spill out onto the glassed-in train platform, creating a unique dining experience. Patrons can also book a private meal in a transformed train car that seats up to 35 people. Murals of Wisconsin barns and pastures add to the charm, taking diners on a simulated Midwestern road trip.

This location provides a perfect backdrop for the supper club experience, combining history and modernity. The renovated depot gives the restaurant a distinct character that sets it apart from others.

The attention to detail in the renovation is evident, creating an inviting and comfortable atmosphere for diners.

Menu and Signature Dishes

The Harvey House updates classic supper club dishes using Wisconsin's finest ingredients. Joe Papach puts his own spin on serving walleye, trimming the top fillet and using the belly and tail to make a mousse, then layering the filet and mousse with a crispy cap of rye.

This creative approach to a traditional dish showcases Joe's culinary skills and his commitment to modernizing classic flavors.

Other traditional dishes are also elevated, such as shrimp cocktail served with pickled celery hearts and pigs in a blanket made with smoked kielbasa, house-made brioche, and Wisconsin cheddar cheese.

The use of local ingredients adds a unique touch to each dish, making them truly representative of the Midwest.

Comparison with Other Supper Clubs

While The Harvey House isn't the only establishment celebrating the supper club tradition, it stands out with its own take. Ishnala, just 30 miles north of Madison, is a classic supper club with impeccable traditional fare and a long wait for tables.

It offers a more homey atmosphere and a taste of Wisconsin's supper club history.

The Bellagio's Mayfair Supper Club in Las Vegas takes a different approach, approximating the vibe of a more urbane Prohibition-era supper club. With luxurious cuts of meat and Cirque-worthy aerialists, it adds a modern twist to the supper club experience.

Each of these supper clubs has its own charm and uniqueness, but The Harvey House offers a distinct Midwestern flavor.

Reviving a Historic Supper Club

The Turk's Inn supper club in Wisconsin was revived in New York City by Varun Kataria and Tyler Erickson. Staying true to the original owner's Turkish and Armenian background, the menu features a relish tray inspired by mezze platters.

This revival shows the enduring popularity and adaptability of the supper club concept.

The use of local Wisconsin cheeses in their "cheese cloud" dish adds a touch of home to the New York City location.

The Turk's Inn is a testament to the lasting impact of supper clubs on the culinary landscape.

In conclusion, The Harvey House and other supper clubs like it offer a unique dining experience that combines tradition and modernity. They turn dinner into a special occasion, stretching the night out with a variety of delicious dishes and a lively atmosphere. Whether in Madison, Wisconsin, or Las Vegas, the supper club spirit lives on.