Unlock the Laughter in Haute Cuisine

Early Days and the Signature Blue Door

In the early years of the French Laundry, there was an air of anticipation as one approached that iconic blue door. It was a sign of the exceptional dining experience that awaited inside. The transition of fancy food in America at that time was palpable, moving away from its traditional and staid image towards a more locally focused and relaxed vibe.

When Thomas Keller opened the restaurant in 1994, it marked a turning point. Diners from far and wide made the pilgrimage to Yountville, California, eager to experience what the New York Times critic Ruth Reichl had hailed as "the most exciting place to eat in the United States." And from the very first bite of the "oysters and pearls" dish, the magic began.

The Groundbreaking "Oysters and Pearls"

The "oysters and pearls" dish was truly groundbreaking when it first appeared on the French Laundry menu in 1994. It combined humble tapioca with caviar and plump oysters, creating a flavor explosion that was both daring and delicious. The soft pop of the caviar atop the bouncy tapioca pearls and the briny sabayon surrounding it was a sensory delight.

Not only was it a culinary masterpiece, but it also displayed a sense of humor that was both sophisticated and sly. It poked fun at the "haute" in haute cuisine, showing that fine dining could be fun and not just about strict formality.

The Exhilarating Nine-Course Meal

The nine-course meal at the French Laundry was an experience like no other. Each dish was a work of art, from the silky wobble of the truffle custard scooped with a potato chip from a translucent eggshell to the supple snap of the butter-poached lobster with leeks and beets. The delicate crunch of the salmon tartare cornets added a playful touch.

Culinary wit and edible puns were woven throughout the meal, from the "tongue in cheek" dish to the trompe l'oeil "coffee." It was a culinary journey that left a lasting impression, with diners remembering every bite for more than 20 years.

Bringing the Magic to New York City

In 2004, Thomas Keller brought his precision and sense of fun, along with much of the French Laundry menu, to New York City with the opening of Per Se. The entrance with the oversize blue door was a nod to the original, but with a twist. Diners would tug at the knob, only to have the glass panels on the side open magically, adding to the sense of anticipation.

Per Se received glowing reviews, continuing the legacy of the French Laundry and bringing a touch of California's culinary creativity to the Big Apple.