Cao lầu, a noodle soup hailing from Vietnam's coastal city of Hội An, is a culinary gem that is seldom found outside its native region. Topped with braised pork, pickled vegetables, and a rich broth, it shares some similarities with other Vietnamese soups. However, it is the unique noodles that truly set this dish apart. The well water used to make these noodles contains trace amounts of vegetable ash from the cây tràm trà, a tree exclusive to this part of Vietnam. Without this essential ingredient, the noodles would lose their golden color, earthy flavor, and that signature bouncy texture.

Experience the True Flavors of Vietnam at Our Pop-ups

Origin and Uniqueness of Cao Lầu

Cao lầu's origin in Hội An gives it a distinct character. The alkali-rich well water and the special tree ash contribute to its one-of-a-kind taste. It stands out among Vietnamese soups, offering a flavor and texture that is truly unforgettable. For one night only last July, New Yorkers had the rare opportunity to taste cao lầu in its pure form, thanks to chef Thư Phạm Buser and her team. This event was a testament to the importance of preserving and sharing Vietnam's culinary heritage.

The noodles themselves are a work of art. Their golden color and earthy flavor are a result of the unique ingredients used. When cooked just right, they have a bouncy chew that is both satisfying and delightful. This is a dish that showcases the skill and creativity of Vietnamese cuisine.

Vietnamese Cuisine in New York City

New York City's Vietnamese food scene has evolved over the years. In the early 70s, the first major influx of Vietnamese immigrants arrived, bringing with them classic staples like phở and bánh mì. However, it wasn't until later that more diverse and innovative Vietnamese restaurants started to emerge.

Restaurants like Indochine and Le Colonial brought pricier joints to the city, serving dishes like "Vietnamese ravioli" and coconut Napoleon. These establishments focused on haute cuisine rather than homestyle cooking. But in recent years, a new wave of Vietnamese chefs has embraced creativity and started pop-ups that are revolutionizing the way we experience Vietnamese cuisine.

Pop-ups: A Trailblazing Medium

Pop-up chefs in New York City have more freedom compared to those working in traditional restaurants. Each limited-seat event allows them to celebrate and explore regional foods that rely on hard-to-find ingredients.

For example, Thư Phạm Buser's second Ăn Cỗ focused on Vietnam's highlands. The main course was quartered chicken spiced and grilled over charcoal, accompanied by bamboo stuffed with turmeric-stained sticky rice. This dish showcased the diverse culinary traditions of Vietnam's central highlands and mountainous north.

Regional Variations in Vietnamese Cuisine

Vietnam is a country with rich regional diversity, and this is reflected in its cuisine. Different regions have their own unique dishes and ingredients.

Chef Phoebe Tran's Bé Bếp pop-ups explore Vietnamese cooking through the lens of seasonality and local availability. She travels extensively in Vietnam, studying native crops and cultivation techniques. This allows her to incorporate local ingredients into her dishes and celebrate the diversity of Vietnamese cuisine.

Pop-ups and Cultural Connection

Pop-ups like Xin Mời and Hồng Dao are not just about serving food; they are about creating a cultural connection.

Trisha Đỗ and Gùi Trang's Xin Mời pop-up celebrates Lunar New Year with traditional Vietnamese dishes. The pop-up concept is inspired by her mother's cooking and her grandmother's handwriting, which is used to create a custom font for the menus. This shows how food can be a powerful tool for connecting with one's heritage.

Ca Da Duong's Hồng Dao dinners also focus on creating an intimate space for meaningful conversations about Vietnamese cuisine and culture. These dinners encourage guests to reflect on their connection to Vietnamese cuisine and its evolution.

At these pop-ups, diners can experience the rich cultural heritage of Vietnam in a way that is both delicious and meaningful. Whether it's through the hand-carved centerpieces or the carefully crafted dishes, each pop-up offers a unique glimpse into Vietnam's culinary world.