In the bustling West Loop, Cooks at El Che Steakhouse and Bar find themselves relying on heat-resistant forearms as they work the grill. During service, it transforms into a literal inferno of wood, charcoal, and beef - from marrow bones to strips and filets. Behind this culinary spectacle is John Manion.

Honoring Culinary Traditions

Manion, born in Brazil, recently opened Brasero in West Town. This handsome, wide-open space not only features a large grill but also pays homage to his culinary roots. "El Che speaks to the time I spent in Argentina when I was a younger cook and chef. I fell in love with live-fire cooking," he shared.

Seafood and Bold Flavors

A good start at Brasero is the pão de queijo, a traditional gluten-free snack made of cassava flour and cheese, baked fresh and served with concord grape jam and truffle cheese. Another light starter is raw tuna resting in a shallow pool of tomato ponzu broth, accompanied by uchuva - the Peruvian groundcherry and fried capers. Pairing it with a citrusy caipirinha is always a great idea.The moqueca, a traditional seafood stew, is one of the best dishes at Brasero and is practically impossible to find elsewhere in Chicago. Head-on shrimp and mahi are seared, mussels are stewed in coconut milk, and even homemade ramen noodles from Logan Square's Akahoshi are added. Everything is then buried in coconut broth. "Obviously influenced by West Africa with nuts, chiles, hot sauce, lime juice, and fresh herbs," Manion explained.

Salmon with a Twist

Salmon is poached in banana leaves, hiding a scallop and shrimp mousse, along with melted garlic and leeks. The sauce is deceptively complex, with a heart of palm beurre blanc and a little trout roe added at the end.

Selectively Chosen Beef

There is some beef on the menu, carefully selected. "When you think of a Brazilian steakhouse - a churrascaria - one of my earliest memories is picanha, which has a big fat cap," Manion said. It is first cooked over indirect heat and then seared to order. "And then a little bit of [beef] tallow, that's it," he added.

Delicious Desserts

Although there are only a couple of desserts, the coconut soft serve is a must-try. Laced with a chocolate drizzle, its texture is textbook. "The soft serve was inspired by Urban Belly - Bill Kim. The whole reason I opened this restaurant is to have a coconut soft serve," Manion said.Brasero1709 W. Chicago Ave., 872-342-2079El Che Steakhouse & Bar845 W. Washington Blvd., 872-320-4912